The Middle Kingdom

Well I’ve made it out.

This morning, I woke up well before my alarm. I pretty much unpacked and repacked everything, so that I was sure I had everything. Luckily, I had plenty of time to do so, as well as time to shower, shave, and send a few last minute messages to my family and co-workers.

As I showered, I started to feel very frustrated. I didn’t want to leave. I kept remembering how frustrated I’d been coming back from Europe (and I’d come back to an action packed summer that time—this time I’m coming back with barely three weeks until I start school) and I didn’t want to go through that again. I didn’t want to battle the wanderlust anymore and be unable to move on from the trip.

So I decided, I won’t. When I got back to my room, I made a list of things I am looking forward to. Number one is of course my family. There are also several friends that I am looking forward to seeing so we can go swimming, hiking, and camping in the few weeks I have left of summer break (heck being able to just pick up the phone and call people is going to be nice.) I also want to see people from my church. Before I left, I agreed to help with a little project in the end of August for my old Boy Scout troop, and that will be a lot of fun. I’m excited to get back to work at the SCUBA shop, as well as returning the Study Abroad office at school. I also have an inbox full of people asking to get together to hear about China.

As I looked over the list, I started to laugh. “My life is so cool,” I said out loud to the empty room.

Then I started to laugh. Soon, once again, I was crying tears of joy. “I’m going home! I’m going home.”

I checked out of the hostel and my driver actually showed up a few minutes early. As he loaded my luggage into the trunk of his car, I looked around the street, taking in the sights and sounds of Shanghai one last time. As we drove to the airport, I twisted and turned in my seat making sure to see every landmark I could recognize one last time. Again, we had a bright blue sky today…and I realized we’ve actually had blue sky every day in July.

At the end of my trip around Europe, I made a list of “things I learned from studying abroad.” I’ve definitely learned just as much in China, but I am not sure my take-aways are quite as interesting and philosophical as Europe was. I still feel like I have a few thoughts worth debriefing (more thoughts will probably form in the coming days, but this is a start.)

One of the biggest things I’ve been thinking about today is the opening introduction to one of the first books I read about China when I arrived. It posed the question, “Is China a superpower or have they faked it really well?” I’ve thought about this a lot throughout my trip and riding to the airport today, I tried to crystalize my answer. On one hand, China does deserve a lot of credit. I mean the Chinese civilization has continually existed longer than any other country in the world. The emperors were contemporaries with the Egyptian Pharaohs and Roman Soldiers. That does deserve some credit. And—despite some of the methods used to accomplish such achievement—Mao Zedong basically led the country from the brink of universal poverty following WWII, to being a fully industrialized nation in just 30 years. They’ve accomplished what it took America 200 years to do.

At the same time, the two biggest issues are (1) poverty and (2) sustainability. In terms of poverty, my observation is that China is a lot more fun if you have money. Living in the apartment, working at the office, and enjoying the city life of Shanghai was a lot more fun that slumming in the hutongs of Beijing (which don’t get me wrong, was an incredible experience and one that I wouldn’t trade for the world…but I wouldn’t want to live that way forever.) In terms of sustainability, the pollution has to catch up to China eventually. I can only imagine that the health consequences for living in such an environment will eventually be widespread. After just ten weeks, my throat and sinuses are so dry and my lungs hurt.

But I think a better question to ask is “What is a super power?”

I mean yes, China does have a GDP rivaled only by the US, as well as a domestic security budget unlike any other in the world. They have some of the worlds most populated cities (Shanghai being #1) and public transport networks that efficient move literally hundreds of millions of people every day. They have an economy based entirely on supply and demand (where you negotiate the price you are willing to pay) and a capitalist mindset that hasn’t been seen in the west since before WWII. If you break it down though, China’s GDP per capita is on par with sub-Saharan Africa, their medical system is decades behind the Western world, and their government is basically controlled by a fraternity of the country’s most wealthy. In the end though, it kind of works.

Or take the US. US is the strongest economy in the world, with most of the world’s currency being in US dollars, and the dollar being used as the benchmark to set the value of every other currency in the world. The US is on the brink of innovation with technology, specifically as it relates to data storage and communication. It has the largest military in the world, one of the most religious populations in the world, and some of the most well respected universities in the world. On the medical front, the US has been able to prolong life by decades with each and every generation. The US is also the most philanthropic nation with both government programs and private agencies traveling the world to help end poverty and cure diseases. At the same time, we have the highest rate of violent crime in the world, the highest rate of obesity, a polarized government with some of the most over-paid politicians in the world, a media system driven by ratings, and the most incarcerated citizens of any country. In the end though, it kind of works.

And I think that is the lesson I’ve learned from my time in the Wild, Wild East…no country is perfect. No government has it all figured out. Everyone is doing their best to provide the most comfortable life they can.

I truly have come to believe that pity is somewhat rude. So many people seem to make these observations about how they feel bad for people in other countries. While yes, the poor in the US have access to more things than the poor in other countries, I don’t think it’s right to pity anyone. Rich or poor, people find happiness in the world they know. Many people that are considered “poor” by our standards are just as happy if not more so than many people we consider “middle class.” It all comes down to different strokes for different folks. Of course there are people who want more or need more and are unable to get it…but I don’t think it’s right to assume that everyone who lives differently is worse of off than we are in the West.

The Chinese psyche really is interesting. You can definitely see the influence that the various religeons—Confucianism, Taoism, and Buddhism—have played in shaping the mindset, as well as that of ancestral worship and a paternal based societal structure. I think two of the biggest take-aways that foreigners can learn are (1) the concept of face and (2) the concept of relationships. Face really comes down to a very complicated view of reputation. While from a western view it does seem like a bit of a scapegoat, it is very deeply rooted in the chinese mindset. If you study it a little, it really is more than just what people think of you. It is really connected to the value you bring to society. There are certainly some convoluted aspects to it, but it isn’t entirely different than the “blue collar, middle class, American worker” image that we try to portray in the US.

As far as relationships go, Chinese people have to be the most friendly and hospitable folks around. While some of the mannerisms are different than the “Friendliness” we expect in the west, they will go above and beyond to make sure that foreigners feel welcomed and appreciated. I heard a lot about how Chinese people sort of have a “tit-for-tat” view of relationships, but I only really experienced that with Claire. I do believe that it is part of the culture, but I don’t think it is as deep or as strange as Westerners make it sound.

And in terms of an “us vs. them” mentality…it was odd living as a minority for ten weeks. While I certainly got more respect and adoration than minorities get in the states, it was strange being stared at, pointed at and talked about. It was flattering being looked at and talked to like a celebrity, but it was also frustrating to be ignored (in restaurants, by taxis, etc.) for looking different.

I think a lot of Americans fear China. I’m not sure there is really anything to be afraid of. People said it’s dirty, and yes it is—but it’s not grimy. People said the government is controlling, and yes they are—but it’s not oppressive. I really think it is a very warm society, with wonderfully kind people, interesting history, and a fascinating world view.

Me personally, I don’t think I would choose to live in China. If I had to go there—for a great job opportunity or some other reason—I absolutely could and I would be happy to live in either Shanghai or Xi’an. There are really just 2 reasons I wouldn’t choose to permanently relocate there: (1) the heat is horrendously stifling (2) the polluted air really is hard to get used to. Beyond that, it’s a great place! I will definitely come back to visit again—in fact I’ve already mapped out my next trip to include Hangzhou, Guilin, Chengdu, and Nanjing.

When my car dropped me at the airport, I thanked the driver and rolled my bags inside. Taking one last lung full of Chinese air, I went into the airport and checked in for my flight. I paid for my extra bag, cleared customs, bought a book in the terminal, and had one last chinese meal of dumplings and milk tea.

You know, I thought to myself, people back home will never understand what you’ve been through. I knew that was true. I realize I have an opportunity to share with people about an incredible culture many will never get to see up close. It is a great blessing and a true opportunity. At the same time, I know it will be frustrating. But I have lots of wonderful memories to hold onto, and lots of amazing opportunities to go home to.

My trip home has three legs. I fly from Shanghai to Tokyo (where I have a 40 minute layover!) and then from Tokyo to Seattle (where I cross the international dateline and land 5 hours before I take off, and then home. I happened to be lucky enough to be flying on the 787 from Shanghai to Tokyo. It really is an amazing experience. There is so much leg room, the tray tables are huge, the lighting in the cabin is soft and changes colors, and the window are awesome. The windows on the 787 don’t even have shades, instead, there is a little button that dims the light form outside. You can still see out, but it’s like putting on sunglasses, and you can control how light or dark you want it.

There was both a lump in my throat and a smile on my face as we took off from Shanghai. I’m sad to leave but elated to be going home. I know that I’ll be back again someday, and I know other adventures await me in other far off corners of the globe. And as we climbed above the clouds, the whole experience flooded back through my memory. In some ways, it feels like it was just a dream. In other ways, it feels like the most real two months of my life.