Wednesday, July 23, 2014

Going to Xi'an

It was bittersweet leaving Beijing. I really, really enjoyed it. While there have been snippets of history here and there, this was the first city I could really dive into to see the history. I wish it hadn’t been so hot, because it really was miserable being out the heat. Not that it really detracted from the experience—I mean I’ll never forget living the hutong, exploring the city like a local on a bike, or going to the wall—but the heat required constant attention to not get hung up on.

I would come back to Beijing. Not that there is necessarily more that I want to see here, but I think it is worth seeing and I would certainly bring my own kids here someday. I also thing my parents would like to see it—in less heat of course.
I took the Airport Express to Beijing Airport. This is the only metro train that costs 25RMB to ride as opposed to 2RMB like every other line in the city. Beijing Airport is actually laid out a bit different than most international airports. It has all the same features—big departure board, islands for checking in, etc—but its more cluttered and not arranged quite the same way. This flight was actually a first for me. It is the first domestic flight I have ever taken abroad. Because of that, I was able to check in at a kiosk before going to find some lunch.

For lunch, I got scammed! I was looking for a starbucks, but I got talked into a noodle place by the lady passing out menus. The food was awful. I avoided getting upsold to a more expensive combo meal that I didn’t want, but luckily they talked me into a side of fries. The beef tendon wasn’t doing it for me, so the fries became most of my calories for that meal. The lemon tea wasn’t so bad though.
After I ate, I went through security (where I got stopped again for my little safe—which while inconvenient does give me more hope about the Chinese Aviation Security system (for a while no one seemed to be concerned about this safe which was always causing concern in the US and Europe.)

I was struck by the lack of duty free shops inside the terminal. That’s when I put together that I wasn’t on an international flight this time. Nothing was duty free because I was staying inside the country.
At the gate, I took out the book Forbidden City that I have been reading. You probably never read it, and probably wont be able to find it since it is out of print. Both of these statements are tragic. It is fantastic. As a historical fiction, it follows the son of a journalist sent to cover Gorbychovs visit to Beijing in 1989. This is of course when the student demonstrations began, which turned into a riot, and later a massacre. The book is very simple in its language and only about 200 pages long, but it vividly describes the events from Tiannamen Square that summer, as well as some of the political undercurrent that drove the movement to become so violent.

I read the book during my entire wait at the gate, all through take off, and up through landing—stopping just briefly to enjoy my inflight meal. I seriously have never experienced meals on a domestic flight like this. The food wasn’t the highest of quality, but it was tasty and very filling. This one included rice and chicken, along with a cup of yogurt, a roll that I did not eat, and a Chips Ahoy cookie. The yogurt here is really liquefied and more of a drink than a food item. It tastes good though.
But back to my book…if you can get your hands on a copy you should. I was just about crying as I read the second to last chapter. I was even irritated our flight was ontime because I didn’t have time to finish it yet.

My hostel had emailed me that the airport was too far and inconvient to get to their location from. They had given me the bus route which would require three transfers and about 2 hours, or they offered to arrange a driver for me for about 20USD. I accepted the car offer.
When I came out of the arrivals, I did not see my driver. I didn’t panic because in terms of bad airport arrival situations, this one didn’t even rank in the top 5. Okay, actually maybe it did because most of my arrivals have been seemless, but this was already better than Hong Kong. I tried to get a Wi-Fi signal to see if the hostel had emailed me anymore specifics, but my phone wouldn’t connect.

Luckily, as I paced around, I saw a man walk up with a sign that had my name on it. I approached him, and he took my pack and lead me out to a car.
In reality, I was glad I took the car. Even by taxi, it took 90 minutes to get from the airport to my hostel. The city however looked amazing. In a lot of ways, it was the spitting image of Shanghai but with about ¼ as many people. Sky scrappers were everywhere and little bakeries lined every corner. I also saw the university in China that my university has a “sister exchange” with.

But the defining feature that makes Xi’an unique—besides being about 4000 years old and the original capital of China—is the city wall. Even though it has been rebuilt and reconstructed several times, it is one of the only city walls in the world that still stands keeping out “intruders.” Driving through the gate was really, really cool.
I got to my hostel and got checked in. This is definitely one of the most atmospheric hostels I’ve stayed at. With three large courtyards, their signs and my books both boast that this is traditional housing style from 200 years ago in China. The incense that burns in the public bathrooms as well as the caged birds hanging amongst the plants in the hallways really gives it a lot of character.

Depending on interest (they wont do it for just one person) they offer tours to some of the better known sites around Xian. These include the Terracotta Warriors, the tomb of Qin Shi Huang (the first emperor of Qin…the kingdom that became China…4000 years ago), the tomb of Jingdi, a Tang Dynasty show, a dumpling class, and a Panda sanctuary. My plan is to do all of them, but they said there needs to be more interest first. Right now, there is only enough interest to run the Terracotta Warriors and Qin Shi Huang tomb. So I’ll be seeing those tomorrow.
Around the Hostel, I want to go to the Muslim quarter, especially the Great Mosque. I’d also like to go to the Wild Goose Pagoda.

But for dinner tonight, the front desk suggested travelers cafĂ©, and international restaurant. I have to admit, when i walked in and saw hamburgers on the menu, I stared salivating. I went for the risotto and I will say, I think it was the most authentic Italian flavor I’ve had outside of Rome (although the cuts o meat were a little interesting.) Washing it down with a mango smoothie was great, although the cheesecake was once again…cheese. I’ve made the mistake of ordering this 3 times now hoping to find New York style cheesecake, but every time I get some sort of cheddar based dish. This was the first time I ate all of it, and it isn’t bad…it’s just not dessert.
Luckily, I have chocolate stashed in my room (something I picked up at the Beijing airport.)

I’m planning on having an early night tonight because my tour for the Terracotta Warriors starts at 7:00am tomorrow. Looking forward to diving even further back in history for another fun adventure!

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